Connecticut Restaurants, Hamden, CT - Mickey's Restaurant & Bar

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Singing With Southern Europe's Flavors
As featured in the New York Times, By PATRICIA BROOKS
Published: May 19, 2002

IN recent years Sage has been a hot-button restaurant name. But Rosemary and Sage in Old Saybrook has carried this a step further. What next? Rosemary, Sage and Coriander?

Actually, what makes this charming new arrival (ensconced in the former premises of Cafe Routier, which has moved to Westbrook) so appealing is not the name, fragrant and inviting as it is, but the winning combination of food, cozy setting and welcoming, upbeat staff.

Subtitled ''Mediterranean Grill and Wine Bar,'' Rosemary and Sage certainly has that right. All the freshness and the kitchen's expertise make a meal here sheer pleasure. All the palate-pleasing, clear, unadulterated, salubrious flavors of southern Europe sing loud and clear. An example is the simple tri-color salad, a harvest of arugula, radicchio and endive, anointed with balsamic vinaigrette, and topped with sheets of shaved parmigiana cheese -- simple perfection.

What makes this more than just another attractive Mediterranean-cum-Italian restaurant is its originality. Stuffed oysters may not sound special, but this version featured shells bursting with an abundance of fresh crabmeat, spinach, bacon, mushrooms, green and red peppers, and oysters, of course, lolling in a velvety sauce that combined brandy with béarnaise insouciantly. Superb!

Another appetizer, tunnoli (cannoli shell filled with pan-seared tuna), sounded tantalizing, but the supply was depleted that night. Dismayed, my guest turned to ricco e povero. Disappointment gave way to unmitigated delight at the huge bowl of savory broad beans, wearing a banner of fresh basil and brimming with shrimp, squid, scallops, mussels and red onions, in a wispy citrus-spiked garlicky broth of a sauce.

Rosemary and Sage's firecracker calamari crackled and snapped zestfully. The lightly battered, fried squid were shrouded in a red sauce as peppery as it looked -- made with plum tomatoes and tossed with capers, onion, kalamata olives and hot cherry peppers. Innovation surfaced also in Rachel's pollo -- chicken breast stuffed with fresh spinach, feta cheese and pine nuts, wrapped in bacon, baked, sliced into attractive cross sections and served in a white wine sauce perfumed with sage. This delicious entree was enhanced by fresh-whipped potatoes and al dente asparagus.

My first soft-shell crabs of spring will be hard to surpass. Lightly wrapped in an herb-seasoned batter, sautéed brown and served in a tangy sauce of lime, thyme and garlic, they came with buttery spinach and roasted potatoes carved into mushroom shapes (caps, stems and all), a conceit as tasty as it was pretty. Portions are generous to a fault. Considering all our dishes, the chewy bread with aromatic olive oil for dipping and an amuse-bouche (a tidbit of mint-garlic-accented eggplant salad on terrific house-made focaccia), we didn't crave dessert.

But duty called, so I ordered fallen chocolate cake, which, our waitress explained, would ''take a few minutes as the chef bakes everything to order.'' Our 10-minute wait -- while sipping the last of our Robert Mondavi pinot noir (at $29 per bottle) -- was worth it. The cake -- firm-textured outside, rich and runny bitter chocolate within -- came with vanilla ice cream studded with chocolate-covered almonds. Friends tried the apple tart (also excellent) and an unusual, finely grained semolina cake, moist from a fruit sauce and crested with slices of caramelized bananas.

Astonished by the quality and creativity in every dish, there was still one agreeable surprise left -- our bill: $72 for two, before tax, tip and drinks. A well-chosen wine list, which roams the viniculture map, begins at $21.

Off Exit 66 on I-95, Rosemary and Sage is already worth a special trip. Don't expect fancy flourishes or trendy décor. What you'll find, if my visits are a barometer, is delicious, top-quality food, prepared with skill and imagination. As the old song goes, ''who could ask for anything more?''

Rosemary and Sage
1080 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook
(860)388-1166

Excellent

ATMOSPHERE A charming, tiny dining room in salmon hues, with cafe shutters and Thonet chairs.
NOISE LEVEL Animated when crowded, but helped by carpeting and well-spaced tables.
SERVICE Well-trained and helpful.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Stuffed oysters, tri-color salad, ricco e povero, penne al mondo vecchio, gnocchi, Rachel's pollo, soft shell crab, carne d'agnello in crosta di pane, fallen chocolate cake, semolina cake, apple tart.
PRICE RANGE Lunch entrees, $10-$14; Dinner entrees, $15-$23.
CREDIT CARDS Most major cards accepted.
HOURS Lunch: 11:30 A.M. - 2 P.M. Monday through Friday; Dinner: 5 P.M. - 9:30 P.M. Monday through Thursday, 5 P.M.- 10:30 P.M. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.
RESERVATIONS Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY street level to dining level, restrooms on same level.

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	Back Singing With Southern Europe's Flavors As featured in the New York Times, By PATRICIA BROOKS Published: May 19, 2002 IN recent years Sage has been a hot-button restaurant name. But Rosemary and Sage in Old Saybrook has carried this a step further. What next? Rosemary, Sage and Coriander? Actually, what makes this charming new arrival (ensconced in the former premises of Cafe Routier, which has moved to Westbrook) so appealing is not the name, fragrant and inviting as it is, but the winning combination of food, cozy setting and welcoming, upbeat staff. Subtitled ''Mediterranean Grill and Wine Bar,'' Rosemary and Sage certainly has that right. All the freshness and the kitchen's expertise make a meal here sheer pleasure. All the palate-pleasing, clear, unadulterated, salubrious flavors of southern Europe sing loud and clear. An example is the simple tri-color salad, a harvest of arugula, radicchio and endive, anointed with balsamic vinaigrette, and topped with sheets of shaved parmigiana cheese -- simple perfection. What makes this more than just another attractive Mediterranean-cum-Italian restaurant is its originality. Stuffed oysters may not sound special, but this version featured shells bursting with an abundance of fresh crabmeat, spinach, bacon, mushrooms, green and red peppers, and oysters, of course, lolling in a velvety sauce that combined brandy with béarnaise insouciantly. Superb! Another appetizer, tunnoli (cannoli shell filled with pan-seared tuna), sounded tantalizing, but the supply was depleted that night. Dismayed, my guest turned to ricco e povero. Disappointment gave way to unmitigated delight at the huge bowl of savory broad beans, wearing a banner of fresh basil and brimming with shrimp, squid, scallops, mussels and red onions, in a wispy citrus-spiked garlicky broth of a sauce. Rosemary and Sage's firecracker calamari crackled and snapped zestfully. The lightly battered, fried squid were shrouded in a red sauce as peppery as it looked -- made with plum tomatoes and tossed with capers, onion, kalamata olives and hot cherry peppers. Innovation surfaced also in Rachel's pollo -- chicken breast stuffed with fresh spinach, feta cheese and pine nuts, wrapped in bacon, baked, sliced into attractive cross sections and served in a white wine sauce perfumed with sage. This delicious entree was enhanced by fresh-whipped potatoes and al dente asparagus. My first soft-shell crabs of spring will be hard to surpass. Lightly wrapped in an herb-seasoned batter, sautéed brown and served in a tangy sauce of lime, thyme and garlic, they came with buttery spinach and roasted potatoes carved into mushroom shapes (caps, stems and all), a conceit as tasty as it was pretty. Portions are generous to a fault. Considering all our dishes, the chewy bread with aromatic olive oil for dipping and an amuse-bouche (a tidbit of mint-garlic-accented eggplant salad on terrific house-made focaccia), we didn't crave dessert. But duty called, so I ordered fallen chocolate cake, which, our waitress explained, would ''take a few minutes as the chef bakes everything to order.'' Our 10-minute wait -- while sipping the last of our Robert Mondavi pinot noir (at $29 per bottle) -- was worth it. The cake -- firm-textured outside, rich and runny bitter chocolate within -- came with vanilla ice cream studded with chocolate-covered almonds. Friends tried the apple tart (also excellent) and an unusual, finely grained semolina cake, moist from a fruit sauce and crested with slices of caramelized bananas. Astonished by the quality and creativity in every dish, there was still one agreeable surprise left -- our bill: $72 for two, before tax, tip and drinks. A well-chosen wine list, which roams the viniculture map, begins at $21. Off Exit 66 on I-95, Rosemary and Sage is already worth a special trip. Don't expect fancy flourishes or trendy décor. What you'll find, if my visits are a barometer, is delicious, top-quality food, prepared with skill and imagination. As the old song goes, ''who could ask for anything more?'' Rosemary and Sage 1080 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook (860)388-1166 Excellent ATMOSPHERE A charming, tiny dining room in salmon hues, with cafe shutters and Thonet chairs. NOISE LEVEL Animated when crowded, but helped by carpeting and well-spaced tables. SERVICE Well-trained and helpful. RECOMMENDED DISHES Stuffed oysters, tri-color salad, ricco e povero, penne al mondo vecchio, gnocchi, Rachel's pollo, soft shell crab, carne d'agnello in crosta di pane, fallen chocolate cake, semolina cake, apple tart. PRICE RANGE Lunch entrees, $10-$14; Dinner entrees, $15-$23. CREDIT CARDS Most major cards accepted. HOURS Lunch: 11:30 A.M. - 2 P.M. Monday through Friday; Dinner: 5 P.M. - 9:30 P.M. Monday through Thursday, 5 P.M.- 10:30 P.M. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. RESERVATIONS Accepted. WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY street level to dining level, restrooms on same level. Back
	Mickey's Group, LLC. 2006-2007 2323 Whitney Ave, Hamden, CT 06518, Tel: 203.288.4700 Fax: 203.288.4727
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